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Rod Building

Rod Building
Review of: Rod Building
article by:
Bob Brandt - New York State Conservationist
Version:
1

Reviewed by:
Rating:
4
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Last modified:January 22, 2017

Summary:

Rod Building is east once you plan out what pats you will need.

Rod Building Is a Very Satisfying Thing to Do

Maybe you have desired to possess a fishing rod which was distinctively yours, or to give a handmade gift to your child, parent or favoured fishing company. In that case rod building is for you?  Because you’re the “contractor” you can choose attributes like the rod length and activity, handle size and fabric, reel seat, guides, windings and decorations to fit your own preference or needs. Anyone who has the abilities and patience to assemble a model from a kit can construct their very own fibreglass or graphite composite fishing rod. Two evenings’ work, using simple instruments and stuff you most likely already have, will lead to a unique stick to be appreciated for a long time.

Getting Started to Building Your Rod

For the beginner, consider beginning either with a mail order rod kit accessible from many fishing tackle providers, or signing up for a pole building class that could be offered by a neighbourhood tackle store or through a close by adult education plan. Through both strategies you’ll be sure of having all the required parts fit to the size and kind of stick you’re constructing. Your pole kit will include a pamphlet describing the detailed procedure of finishing construction. In a pole building class, the teacher will present each step before you try it. If neither of these paths are accessible, you can construct a pole from parts bought from a tackle store or ordered by post from a speciality business. You only have to clarify that you’re just beginning and also you need to have the capacity to get all the essential parts sized right to the pole blank you choose.

Rod Building Parts

Most of the tools you must establish a rod are most likely already on hand. Before starting, get these things collectively: rule; round file; flat file; whetstone; masking tape; java stirrers; pencil; cord; supply of single-edged razor blades or craft knife with disposable blades; candle or alcohol lamp; disposable paint brushes; blending cups for example plastic pill cups; stick cradle (can be home made); two component epoxy; and a couple good used books (any topic).

Be certain you understand all the directions and have every facet of your stick’s assembly nicely intended before beginning. The preparations and details you include are what’s going to differentiate a really individual “custom” stick from an average “factory assembled” mass production stick. Here are several characteristics you need to pay special attention to.

Rod Building Blanks Fibreglass or Graphite Composite Fishing Rod

Locating the “back” Virtually every stick clean has one direction of flex that’s somewhat stiffer than any other. Occasionally the back is clear from an all-natural curvature of the clean, but you will need to discover the back by bending the clean.

Get the stick blank (or each individual segment if it’s a multi-piece stick) and sight along it from one end to see whether there’s any noticeable curvature. When there isn’t any noticeable curvature, you must discover the “back.” To get this done, get each piece and place the heavier end on the ground or a table top. With your hand on the top end, place a small pressure on the rod blank to produce a small curve. Slowly turn the bent blank and see a small “bulge” when you reach one side of the pole that’s somewhat stiffer. This stiff side is the “back” mark it.

After marking the back, start planning positioning of the guides. On poles that usually possess the guides found under the pole (for example fly rods and spinning rods), the guides ought to be put on the side opposite the “back” or interior of the curvature. Bait casting, spin casting and “deep sea” poles usually possess the guides in addition to the pole, and also you ought to put the guides on the outside the curvature or same side as the “backbone.”

Rod Rings Sets Handles and Reel Seats

The size as well as arrangement of handles and reel seats will likely be determined mainly by the sort of stick you’re constructing. If your plan is to utilise conventional cork handles, preformed handles that are a stack of cork bands already pasted and sanded to shape are definitely the most straightforward. Yet, it is likely that the hole in the centre of the hold will have to be enlarged to fit the rod blank. Make use of a round file to slowly boost the size of the hole until the handle fits the stick clean along its full length as well as the handle slides down the tapered pole clean to its closing location.

For the reel seat and stick butt ( in case that it’s suitable), contemplate pasting them with “hot melt,’ adhesive for example that sold in craft supply shops. This really is amply powerful for a freshwater fishing rod. In case the front handle becomes badly soiled or damaged, as they often do, the hot melt glue may be softened by immersing the pole butt in rather hot water. The clasps may subsequently be removed and replaced from the butt end of the stick, leaving the guides and windings unaffected.

Guide Arrangement The following thing to do will be to find out the spacing and arrangement of the guides. Make use of the spacing shown in the pamphlet which comes with your rod kit, or reproduce the spacing from a similar rod. In case your pole is in a couple of bits, consider including a guide in the mandatory wrap of the pole joints or ferrules. The general spacing of the guides should go from close together close to the point, to further apart close to the butt.

Use masking tape to record the guides and point set up accurately aligned with the “back.” Run a part of cord, yarn, or fishing line through every one of the guides from the point to the butt. Bend the rod as if playing a fish and discover whether there are any areas where the line is excessively close or far away from the pole clean. Fix the guides by going and re-recording them until a progressive curve is got. Frequently, mass produced poles would profit from one added guide they may be left off to save expense and creation time. Yet, too many guides increase friction and reduce the possible space of your casts. It is all an issue of balance and compromise.

Guide Setup Taper the “feet” of each guide to a fine edge by beginning with a flat file and smoothing with a whetstone. Leave no burrs or sharp edges. Attach the point guide in alignment with all the back of the stick. Attach the point guide to the pole using “hot melt,’ adhesive to permit simple removal and replacement. A damaged point guide pasted in place with two component epoxy is a significant difficulty.

Guide Windings and Thread Work The pole windings and thread work on your own stick will probably bring more critical evaluation and opinion than just about any other portion of your stick. As such, make sure you take your time. Stick winding threads, generally nylon, come in a number of sizes as well as a rainbow of colours. Generally speaking, most freshwater poles are wound with size A thread, while saltwater and “big game sticks” are wound in heftier size C or size D thread.

To a lot of individuals, smaller sticks appear best with a comparatively straightforward colour scheme on the pole windings; generally one colour with a contrasting trim band or “tipping.” Bigger sticks frequently seem great with more sophisticated colour schemes and intricate ornamental windings forward of the fore hold. The single limit is your imagination.

Before trying to wind your stick, you’ll need some kind of stick cradle. This apparatus is often as straightforward as two perpendicular planks with notches in the ends, or as complex as the commercial models costing a couple of hundred dollars. A thread tensioning apparatus could also be straightforward or elaborate. The easy layout I use would be to put a spool of thread in a coffee cup and run the thread between the pages of an old novel. To raise thread tension, I set another book on top.

Rod Building
Rod Building

You may want to experiment with some windings on a little dowel or pencil before settling on a final layout for the windings. Work carefully, making sure that the windings on each “foot” of each guide are the same width and the size of the windings increases proportional to the size of the guides moving from the point to the butt of the stick.

Finishing touches Even though you cut the winding thread with a sharp blade, there will be some fuzz on the cut end of the thread. This is often taken out by quite briefly exposing each winding to the fire of a candle or alcohol lamp. The nylon fuzz fast burns away, leaving a smooth surface. Treat each winding with “colour preserver” to keep the current colours of your winding thread.

Then, you have to apply the last finish to the guide windings/thread work. For your fibreglass or graphite composite stick, a two component epoxy finish is the most practical. Work in the most dust free place you’ll be able to locate. After placing the pole in a rod cradle, apply a thin layer to every pole winding, streaming a negligible touch onto the bare pole blank itself. When all windings are coated, keep turning the stick a quarter turn every couple of minutes until the epoxy finish treatments. Even though the finish may say “one layer,” it almost never is. Intend on applying two thin layers for a much better finish.

To ensure the longevity of your rod, think about using a protective rod tube that may be generated from PVC plastic pipe and end covers. The stick itself should be kept in a long, thin fabric bag.

Now that you’ve carefully crafted your new rod, sit back, respect it and dream of a suitable fishing excursion to break it in.

Rod Building is east once you plan out what pats you will need.